#PERFORATED EDGE FILE CARDS PLUS#

Now, if you are so foolhardy as to try to print to the edge, then of course, you will get some text cut off, as most home inkjets don't have feeds and print heads that are all that accurate.

#PERFORATED EDGE FILE CARDS PLUS#

I built my own template in Serif Page Plus 10, and they print appropriately pretty much 100% of the time. I also have about zero problems getting them to lineup. I have no problems with the finish or the durability. I have used Plaincards many times, I get them to lineup like 100% of the time, although I didn't get them to print to the edge for a while until I found that EPSON has an 'extended bottom margin' setting. I haven't had any problems - and I'm grateful for the service, because he sells things that I can't seem to get anywhere else! Think of it as more like buying on eBay, I guess. He's not making money at it, and you can't expect the service to be as prompt as (say) Amazon. I understand that the owner runs Protoparts as a hobby and a service for us BGDFers. I don't know whether he now actually offers the glossy stock.

I tried it, but found that the glossy surface would not take inkjet well - it smeared and bled - and I couldn't use my laser printer because of the straight-path restriction, so the glossy card stock was of no use to me. Any rolling or bending and the perforations are liable to come unstuck and jam your printer.ДЄ while back, Protoparts test-offered some glossy stock that is much more like a real card. They would probably work with laser printers BUT I wouldn't try it unless your laser printer has a straight-through paper path. Slip them into card sleeves with opaque backs and they're just fine. They're not as stiff as real cards, and don't shuffle as well.Д«ut they're good for knocking out a cheap set of cards for an early prototype. When punched out, the perforated edges are a bit fuzzy or ragged in places. They are not glossy, do not have a black core, and in strong light you can kind of see through to the other side. They're just regular thick paper stock, kind of like a thin 3x5 index card. They're okay provided you understand what you're getting: these are not 'real' cards. I expect this will combine ease-of-production with sturdy, non-see-through cards. My next experiment will be to buy a set of double-blank playing cards, print to name badge labels, and fix the labels to the cards. The only downside is that you can often see through the label to the playing card beneath (albeit only slightly).ДЇinally, I have discovered that you can buy double-blank poker cards at sites like these:

The labels take inkjet ink very well, and mistakes aren't quite as expensive. I have experimented with this a bit, and it works very well. Also, mistakes are expensive.ДЄnother forum member recommends printing to 2 1/3 by 3 3/8 Avery lables (for name badges), then sticking these to real playing cards. In some cases, the ink beaded slightly, resulting in a 'splat' look after the cards dried. Though they are advertised as working with inkjet printers, I found the results disappointing. I purchased perforated sheets of blank playing cards from. I have not ordered the cards from Protoparts, but I have some other card-related experiences that may be of use. Cyberchrist wrote: Is there someone here that have ordered the perforated playing card sheets from protoparts ?

Perforated edge file cards